A self-guided tour of Saint-Germain-en-Laye chocolate and pastries - ideal as part of a gourmet day trip from Paris. This royal town is not just famous for its château, market and football team but has many fabulous French cake specialities.
Firstly, before reading further, read your introduction to Saint-Germain-en-Laye.
What is Saint-Germain-en-Laye Famous For?
Saint-Germain is perhaps most famous for its château (see my post on the castle roof visits). This symbolises its rich history of French Kings and Queens before Versailles was thought of. However, there is also a gourmet side to this wonderful market town near Paris. It's bigger than you think: according to WorldPopulationReview, the town has an estimated population of 55,500 as of 2024.
As we have lived nearby for over 20 years, we have tasted our way around this gourmet town! There are about 400 shops in the royal historical town and, if you tend to look in the sweeter windows, then I have selected the best of Saint-Germain-en-Laye's chocolate and pastry specialities.
All are within easy walk to and from the RER train station, opposite the castle.
As with all my online guides, please check opening times directly from the shops' websites, as they're subject to change.
A Brief Chocolate History in Saint-Germain
As the longest reigning monarch in France, Louis XIV probably ate extremely well at Saint-Germain-en-Laye. One of the ingredients to a long and prosperous life was chocolate. Introduced to the French court by his mother, Anne of Austria, and his wife, Marie-Therèse, they both brought over their chocolate luxuries from Spain. It started as a chocolate drink, a practise before today's luxury French hot chocolate.
Later at Versailles, it was Louis XVI that finally made chocolate really popular outside of the French court in Paris. It's thanks to his pharmacist in Saint-Germain-en-Laye, Sulpice Debauve, appointed King's Physician in 1778. Debauve helped cure Queen Marie-Antoinette's headaches through chocolate coins or pistoles. More on that below on the chocolate shops.
Chocolate and Pastry Shops
To taste the best of Saint-Germain-en-Laye's chocolate and pastry specialities, no visit is complete without a visit to Grandin, our first stop.
Pâtisserie Grandin - 4 Chocolate and Pastry Specialities
Since 1822, Grandin's patisserie has been an institution on Rue au Pain (Bread Street), the oldest medieval street of Saint-Germain-en-Laye. It's a pâtisserie, confiserie, glacier, chocolaterie - and traiteur - in one.
Taking over from Michel Pottier in 2019, pastry chef Michael Masset continues a traditional yet modern touch to French pastries from the Opéra cake to two types of legendary Baba au Rhum (with/without fruit). After tasting their artisanal ice creams and sorbets, it's difficult to go back to regular store-bought ice cream! There appears to be a rum theme here that is all rather pleasant!
Looking for a posh picnic in the park of the château? Then, as a traiteur, they also prepare exquisite savoury quiches, soups and a bouchée de la reine, highly fitting for a royal town. What's more, Grandin has FOUR house specialities.
Le Debussy
Created by Grandin in 1925, le Debussy pays hommage to the composer. Claude Debussy was born in the house across the road on rue au Pain and now completely renovated as of 2025.
It's the smallest pastry but an oversized chocolate - with a hazelnut sponge, praline mousse and rum-soaked raisins. All coated in dark chocolate.
Saint Germain Lait Chocolate
The 'Saint Germain Lait' chocolates were created for the opening of the new railway line from Paris to Saint-Germain-en-Laye on 14 August 1847. As the name implies, it's milk chocolate with a rum ganache and also exists in dark chocolate with Cognac.
Hence the steam train design. More precisely, the train station terminus was in Le Pecq (where we live). Passengers would walk across the Seine bridge and take the lift up to Le Notre's terrace of Saint-Germain-en-Laye (sadly, this closed down so we have to walk up the steps!).
Le Pavé d'Or Chocolate
These beautiful chocolate ganaches are embossed with the royal crib of Louis XIV in gold. Born here in Saint-Germain-en-Laye and christened in the chapel of the château in 1643, it was Louis' mother, Anne of Austria (Anne d'Autriche, daughter of Louis Philippe II of Spain) who brought chocolate in the form of a drink to the French court of Louis XIII. See more in my introductory article to Saint-Germain-en-Laye.
Le Maurice Denis Pastry
Le Maurice Denis is Grandin's latest speciality. Created in 2020 for the 150th anniversary of the local artist (1870-1943), where he lived all his life. Based on a shortbread style pastry (pâte sablée) with hazelnut, it's filled with a hazelnut cream with caramelised hazelnuts, covered in raspberry jam and topped with the artist's monogram, MAVD.
Maison Grandin
13 rue au Pain, 78100 Saint Germain en Laye
Closed Monday
Hardy Pâtisserie - Gâteau de Saint-Germain Pastry
Since 1978, the Hardy family have continued this bakery from father to son, previously owned by Monsieur Blanc, creator of the Gâteau de Saint-Germain. It's a compact tart made with ground almonds and almond bits and topped with a rum glaze.
As they don't reveal the secrets to the recipe, after many tastings, I've developed as close as I can to the original with my copycat recipe for the Gâteau de Saint-Germain.
They also sell the most beautiful collections of fèves for la galette des rois.
Patisserie Hardy
42 rue des Louviers, 78100 Saint-Germain-en-Laye
Closed Monday
L'Aigle d'Or Boulangerie - Le Saint-Germain
My friends, Laurent and Hanane's breads and cakes are simply fabulous. Particularly famous is one of their baguettes, known as la château (not le château, as that's rather more expensive, jokes Laurent, the baker).
Only a few steps away from the château, it's handy to grab a quick lunch to enjoy in the castle's park. Their croissants are deliciously golden and buttery (one of the best croissants around - see top image) and their delicious cramique brioche has less sugar than those at les Merveilleux de Fred.
Choose from seasonal fruit tarts, flan Parisien (I explain what this is my recipe post and video on crème caramel) and the celebrity of the town, le Saint-Germain cake. Unlike the other versions of this cake in town, theirs is not covered in glaze or presented as a tart. Instead it's the lightest and moist French gluten free almond cake.
For a visit inside their bakery, see them bake both
Pain Perdu and coconut macaroons on video.
Boulangerie l'Aigle d'Or
4 rue de l'Aigle d'Or, 78110 Saint-Germain-en-Laye
Closed Monday
La Fabbrica de Luca
With queues in summer outside this glacier ice cream parlour, I managed to get this photo in the pouring rain! I adore their strawberry sorbet with pistachio ice cream. The latter is just the right colour (like Grandin does too) and not synthetically coloured like many ice cream carts that, alas, we often find in Paris. The ultimate luxury? Top it with a macaron glacé!
La Fabbrica de Luca
18, rue de la Salle, 78100 Saint-Germain-en-Laye
La Tradition by Elio & Franck - Top Pastries
This bakery is popular and easy to spot on the market square with its queues, except on Wednesdays when it's closed! Imagine a boulangerie-pâtisserie with a whole corridor loaded with wonderful bread, cakes and pastries in 3 tiers. Our family favourites? Their Kugelhopf, range of filled financier cakes, pistachio-orange blossom tarts, and apple-speculoos filled crêpes.
46 rue du Poissy, 78100 Saint-Germain-en-Laye
Atelier des 2 Frères - THE Address for Sourdough
Previously Eric Kayser then la Maison Derrouaz, this address has changed hands many times in the last few years. Popular at lunchtimes for baguette sandwiches, quiches and pâtisserie (great coffee éclairs and pistachio choux). ALL of their breads are sourdough (pain au levain), including la tradition baguette. Super choice, including gluten free bread.
8 rue Pologne, 78100 Saint-Germain-en-Laye
Aux Merveilleux de Fred
Probably the sweetest bakery around Paris with the biggest chandelier and popular with those with the sweetest tooth. Read all about his meringue cakes and sticky cramiques brioches in my more in-depth Guide to Aux Merveilleux de Fred Paris.
Aux Merveilleux de Fred
3 rue du Vieux Marché, 78100 Saint-Germain-en-Laye
Closed Monday
Popelini - Choux Pastries
New to town since end 2023, Popelini is the famous Parisian address that sells the cutest filled choux puffs. And it's only cream puffs but they do them ever so well.
The name, Popelini, comes from Catherine de Medici's Italian-born chef who is said to have invented mini choux à la crème in 1540.
26 rue du Vieux Marché, 78100 Saint-Germain-en-Laye
Tom Cannelle Boulangerie-Patisserie
Can you imagine having a name like Cannelle (meaning cinnamon) on Bread Street (rue au Pain)? He should be making cinnamon rolls and bread, in my humble opinion. It's the only bakery where you can buy bread on Bread street and it's also popular at lunchtimes for fresh baguette sandwiches.
Prizewinner for their excellent Gâteau Basque during the annual Fête Luziennes charity event in May. This is a delicious tart-like cake with a creamy filling which comes in two types. Either with vanilla or almond (with a double cross-hatch on the top pastry) or preserved cherries or cherry jam (with the Basque cross on top). Did you know there's even a Gâteau Basque Museum?
Tom Cannelle
77 rue au Pain, 78100 Saint-Germain-en-Laye
Saint-Germain-en-Laye's Chocolate Shops
Saint-Germain-en-Laye's Chocolate and Pastries doesn't stop here! Let's turn to the chocolate shops or chocolateries. As you can see, we're rather spoiled.
À La Mère de Famille - Chocolate Shop
Founded in 1761, À La Mère de Famille is a Parisian institution. Their original shop on rue du Faubourg Montmartre inspired 13 others. Since 1984, it's even a historical monument!
They specialise in chocolates and candies, including candied orange sticks, nut & fruit chocolates (mendiants), florentines, and praline sticks. Don't miss their Grignotines - roasted almonds and candied orange in chocolate.
But that's not all! They also offer chocolate sorbets, ice cream, jams, and seasonal chocolate sculptures. Recently, they merged with Stohrer, the oldest Parisian patisserie (famous for Baba au Rhum). Now they even sell jarred rum baba to take home - a delicious and historic souvenir!
À La Mère de Famille
15 rue du Vieux Marché, 78100 Saint-Germain-en-Laye
Chapon Chocolaterie
At the end of 2023, Patrice Chapon joined the plethora of chocolate shops in town. I already talk about his chocolate making from his boutique in rue du Bac, Paris pastry street. Famous not just for his chocolates but a chocolate mousse bar - including Chapon's Pure 100% chocolate mousse.
I recommend the macarons, made by MOF, Pascal Caffet. Here is Chapon's only tea salon and, although I mention as one of the best hot chocolate in Paris, warm service is sadly lacking.
Chocolatier Nicolsen
Nicolsen's thin chocolate discs or palets continue a whole history of chocolate in Paris. They remind us of Sulpice Debauve who was pharmacist to Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette, and lived in Saint-Germain-en-Laye.
Of Debauve & Gallais fame, the oldest chocolate shop in Paris in rue de Saint-Pères, chocolate discs were considered as medicine for the royal household. Flavoured with orange blossom, ginger or coffee for example, they would each cure some royal ailment. That included avoiding paying taxes on such a luxury as chocolate.
Did you know that Mr. Debauve was the great grandson of David Chaillou? He was the first to set up a chocolate drinking house in rue de l'Arbre Sec, near the Tuileries Palace in 1660 under Louis XIV.
Nicolsen, based in Chavanay, are easy to spot in summer as their ice cream cart is popular outside the shop, selling the famous Parisian glaces, Berthillon.
Nicolsen Chocolatier
19 rue au Pain, 78100 Saint-Germain-en-Laye
Closed Monday
Pascal le Gac Chocolate and Pastries
Don't leave Saint-Germain-en-Laye without tasting the chocolate and pastries here! This gem of an address is classed as one of the top 7 chocolatiers in France.
After working at La Maison du Chocolat for 24 years and reaching the accolade of Creative Director, Pascal le Gac set up his own boutique in Saint-Germain-en-Laye in 2008. Lucky for us!
He favours "excellence over appearance, simplicity and lasting tradition over passing trends". A peek in the window reveals glistening classic chocolate and pastries such as éclairs, moelleux au chocolat, truffles, rochers and the best macarons in Paris. Yes, frankly, I'd even say they're the best macarons in the whole of the Paris region!
Queues outside the door are the norm, as the locals (les Saint-Germanois) choose their favourites especially Easter chocolate and at Christmas. Step inside and smell that chocolate. Ganaches from miel (honey), spices, to even Mango & Sage - where dark chocolate and mango play together - but a subtle herby sage says a cheeky bonjour in the aftertaste.
Chocolate bars: I recommend a bar of Equator 68% which is delightfully fruity, and the more intense Venezuela 81%. Pascal le Gac also does a 100% cacao chocolate bar as well as extra gourmet bars with candied orange peel or with torrified almonds or hazelnuts. For every 4 bars (tablettes) bought, the 5th is free!
Pascal le Gac Chocolatier
61, rue de Pologne, 78100 Saint Germain-en-Laye
Closed Monday
Patrick Roger
Patrick Roger is no stranger to the Paris Chocolate scene. He's the chocolate sculptor who thinks well outside the chocolate box. For years he has delighted us with giant sculptures of grizzly bears, pumpkins, pencils for returning back to school. However, these days you'll find more contemporary works in chocolate. Titled Meilleur Ouvrier de France for his house speciality: Amazone, a bright green dome of chocolate lime caramel which takes 24 steps to obtain this look without using any colorants.
Alas, the choice of chocolates here are now limited but, if you can, try the Delphi for a blind tasting and let me know what you think is in it. I personally love Beijing, his oversized chocolate covered candied gingers. As with top quality chocolate, Patrick Roger is more on the priciest side of chocolateries around Paris but worth indulging for a special occasion.
A much wider range of his chocolate sculptures which he creates from his laboratory in Asnières are on show at his boutique in Place de la Madeleine in Paris. Discover his extra intense Parisian layered chocolate cake!
Patrick Roger, Chocolatier
2 rue de Paris, 78100 Saint-Germain-en-Laye
Closed Monday
More of Saint-Germain-en-Laye's Chocolate and Pastries
I don't have room to discuss them ALL but come and discover even more!
Bonus chocolate shops include Yves Thuriès, Jeff de Bruges, deNeuville.
Plus there's many more boulangerie/pâtisseries (Lemaire, Cédric Hombecq, Goulay, Pains et Merveilles, Maison Gauthier), biscuit shops (La Cure Gourmande), plus American-style sweet cake shops, Daisy Cake and More Than Cakes.
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Saint-Germain-en-Laye to Paris
It only takes 20 minutes on the RER A line (red) to Charles de Gaulle Etoile station (Arc de Triomphe) from Saint-Germain-en-Laye, which is the terminus, just opposite the château.
TOP TRAVEL TIP: For the best experience and to find the above shops open, please avoid Sunday afternoons and Mondays, when most shops close.
None of the establishments mentioned have sponsored this post.
This post was originally published 20 October 2016 but is now completely updated.
Jonasson Janet
After quickly seeing a recent post I read the "tour". I haven't been to Paris in a long time but have visited 4 or 5 times including a 6 month stay as an au pair. I may have been to this area as a friend and I took quick day trips in and around Paris every weekend. I will hopefully return and enjoy Saint- Germain-en-Laye !
Jill Colonna
I certainly do hope you return soon to Saint-Germain-en-Laye, Janet and rekindle the delicious au pair memories you have around Paris.
Mimi
What a fantastic tour Jill. I'm definitely going to go soon and explore, it's been too long since I've visited. If convenient I'd love to invite you to the Salon de Thé or your favorite place for a treat!
Jill Colonna
How very kind of you, Mimi. I'm so glad I wrote this post, then! 🙂 And it's only up the road, really...
Betty
What fun to see all the lovely chocolate shops and tearooms near you, Jill!!
Jill Colonna
It's such a wonderful market town, Betty, and many tourists don't know that it's not far from Paris and calmer... it's my mini version of Paris!
tanveer
whole ARE dilishious
Thomasina
Jill, thank you for giving me this wonderful tour. I wish I could go round every one of these right now. When next in Paris I definitely will find my way here and I will seek out Chez Alice which looks so inviting to have gouter.
Jill Colonna
Thomasina, you'll love Chez Alice. It's one of Saint Germain-en-Laye's hidden sweet treasures.
Mary
All these sweets give me a beautiful sugar overload. Those croissants look divine, perfectly made pockets of goodness. I’ve never found a piece of chocolate I didn’t like, yes please.
Jill Colonna
Mary, you'd love these croissants. They're my favourite here ... and the chocolate shops are divine!
Parisbreakfast
Write me in svp. I am ready for a re-do. There are even more places then when we visited 3 years ago!!
Miam
Jill Colonna
Totally, Carol. It's a pleasure to take you round for an update - jump on the RER and let me know when you're in town.
Biencuitgf
A lovely article Jill - I've posted the link on my personal FaceBook page for local friends - sadly not too much there for my GF followers, but Pascal Le Gac does do GF chocolates and rather delicious they are too!
Jill Colonna
Thanks so much, Lisa. Interesting hearing it from your gluten-free perspective.
Jean Pierre Durand
This is the best post I have ever seen on St Germain en Laye pâtisseries and chocolateries. Not biased, well presented and with a huge heart as always. Makes you want to go and discover them all at once 🙂 Just one or two left on my to do list but will make sure I do go and visit them soon. Merci beaucoup for posting this Jill. Jean Pierre
Jill Colonna
Thank you for your kind words Jean-Pierre. Felt this town needs more publicity of what it has to offer... it's wonderful here. Before I guess I wanted to keep it a bit of a secret 😉 I hope you manage to visit it soon!
Christina | Christina's Cucina
I recognize many of those places! How incredibly lucky you are to have them at such a close proximity to your home, Jill! The tea room looks lovely! I'll just have to come back to have a much longer time to explore!
Jill Colonna
Well I am hoping this has made you want to return, Christina. And absolutely - we'll visit them together. This town is like a miniature Paris and a lot less tiring.