Best Value Gourmet Lyon in 3 Days

What are Lyon's Traboules?

If you're like me and fascinated by historical French doors, you're in for a treat. Behind many of them are secret passageways, called Traboules. The Traboules in Lyon are unique in the world and date back to the Renaissance. Coming from the Latin for "passing through", there are 350 of these secret narrow passages in the city.

They were created as direct paths for the local silk workers (les Canuts) to transport their fabrics protected from the rain - so to avoid 'weaving in and out' between their workshops and the crowded streets (can't resist an ideal pun!).

Like the locals, our friend, Jean-Paul (owner of a gift shop in Rue Saint Jean), is only too familiar with these passageways. There are 24 traboules in Rue Saint Jean alone! He led us to Number 7 as a short-cut to our restaurant, leading us directly to Number 7 right on the Quai Romain Rolland.

Lyon's Silk History

For a better idea of Lyon's main industry, head up the "hill that worked" of the Croix-Rousse to visit the silk weavers' museum. The Maison des Canuts (rue d'Ivry) demonstrates how silk was made. Using Jacquard looms, it depicts the deplorable living and working conditions (the workplace was also their living quarters), leading to many uprisings from the 1830s, also penned in Hugo's "Les Misérables".

To get to the museum, we walked from our hotel - assured by Antoine that it was "just up the road". Up was the word, bracing the steep pente or hill of La Montée de la Rochette to the Croix-Rousse plateau (note the lovely word plateau when you get to the top!)  If you have a step-tracking app or bracelet, you'll be proud of such a condensed 10-minute climb to merit a taste of the local specialities!

The good news is that there are plenty of wonderful bakeries in the neighbourhood to satisfy your savoury or sweet tooth. There are so many, I've written a separate post, on Lyon's patisseries.

What are the Bouchons Lyonnais?

Lyon's star attraction? The Bouchons Lyonnais, which even has its own association! A traditional bouchon is a cosy, welcoming home-from-home, almost as if sitting in someone's own dining room filled with memorabilia, trinkets and local produce.

Originally catering to silk workers with pre-lunch meals, "Mâchon Lyonnaise" from 8-10am, they evolved in the early 20th century thanks to "Mères Lyonnaises." These strong women, out of work after WWI, opened their own "bouchons" - cosy restaurants with simple yet refined food. Think Beaujolais or Côtes du Rhône wine in pots, local ingredients (terroir cooking from-the-land) with lots of bacon.

Who were the Restaurant Mothers of Lyon?

La Mère Fillioux was the first to gain a reputation for her cooking. Following on was
la Mère Brazier, so popular, she opened a second restaurant, passing on her tricks to a certain legendary Lyonnais chef Paul Bocuse. In 1933 she was the first woman to be awarded THREE Michelin stars - and simultaneously for both restaurants!

Typical Bouchon Menu - What to Expect

What's a typical Bouchon Menu? Expect a bowl of grattons, fried and seasoned pork fat with your apéritif drink (take this as a warning, as this is rather an acquired taste!)

Typical entrées (first course, starter) include saucisson sausages or the popular sausisson brioché with a green salad, Salade Lyonnaise (lettuce, bacon, croutons and more); I pounced on my absolute local Bourgogne favourite Oeufs en Meurette (photo above: poached eggs cooked in Burgundy red wine, onions and topped with croutons).

The most typical main dish (plat) is the Quenelle. Formed into a sausage but made with bread and either chicken, veal or fish, most popular is the Quenelle de Brochet, made of pike and served in a Nantua sauce. It looks pretty dense but you'll be surprised how airy it is, washed down with a white Beaujolais!
Imagine Mère Brigousse's quenelle speciality, not quite shaped like sausages but 'Venus nipples' (les tétons de Vénus)!

Dessert usually comes in some kind of pink form, with Pralines Roses as main feature: from Tarte aux Pralines, with a sticky pink garniture of pralines roses melted with cream. But the real classics that were served by the Mères Lyonnais were good old French tarte aux pommes and île flottante (floating meringue in crème anglaise custard).

Our Favourite Bouchons Lyonnais

On previous trips to Lyon, I've headed to Chez Hugon. It's great fun, especially if you arrive when local musicians pop in and the owner joins in. Last time I popped to the loo, they gave me the key attached to a large bone!

We've tried out more and recommend Chabert & Fils (like a museum!), Bistrot Abel, Bouchon des Filles and Daniel et Denise with chef Joseph Voila, Meilleur Ouvrier de France.

Best Value Gourmet Lyon Restaurants

Lyon's traditional bouchons aren't the only great restaurants in town. Two veritable institutions:

• Paul Bocuse - his legendary Michelin-starred restaurant in the north of Lyon is currently celebrating its 100th year. However, his various brasseries around the city are great value to experience the Bocuse legend with a daily set menu (menu du jour)
• Brasserie Georges - another institution in Lyon since 1836 serving craft beer to accompany their typical dishes in a vast art deco dining room. Daily specials and traditional fare.

Lyon's Smaller Bistros

Smaller bistro-style addresses with up-and-coming young chefs are excellent value with limited choice menus. Smaller menus are perhaps not suited for fussy eaters but great to try new dishes you wouldn't normally think of ordering.

• Le Jean-Moulin (45 rue de Sèze, 69006 Lyon)
  Young chef Grégoire Baratier was first awarded "Les Toques Blanches Lyonnaises 2017" amongst an impressive line-up of around 50 like-minded creative chefs and Meilleurs Ouvriers de France just in Lyon alone. Although he learned the ropes from local chefs such as Paul Bocuse and Anne-Sophie Pic, his cuisine bursts with his own personal style.
  It's popular, so booking is essential as a Michelin 'Bib Gourmand' since 2012. With a 3 or 4-course menu, always inventive with dessert combinations that work. Take an iced vin jaune parfait brûlée with a subtle cèpe mousse.
• Arsenic (132 rue Pierre Corneille, Lyon) didn't initially convince us by its name, somehow.  We were imagining all sorts of weird and wonderful dangerous potions appearing at the table, smoking through bowls under some molecular gastronomy spell.
  Instead, Arsenic is more of a concept that highlights the latest talents of young chefs making waves in Lyon's gourmet world. Having gone through the ranks with Christian Têtedoie (Meilleur Ouvrier de France - another fabulous Michelin restaurant with a view of Lyon from the top of the hill), we loved the surprising dishes from Benjamin Milliard when we visited - even the amuse-bouche of cauliflower and Jerusalem artichokes was sublime. Cod and pears? Why not?

Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse

There are 40 markets in Lyon but you can't come to the gastronomic French capital without a visit to Les Halles de Lyon - Paul Bocuse. If taking the car, stock it up with local goodies before the drive back to Paris. 

How to Get to Lyon from Paris

Whether a quick ride by train from Paris or a more leisurely drive south, Lyon is an ideal stop-off en route south to Provence and the Riviera.

• By Train: only takes about 2 hours on the high speed TGV trains from Gare de Lyon.
• By Car: 5 hours direct via the A6 autoroute (with tolls). We suggest a foodie stop in the town of Dijon - it offers more than mustard!
  Alternatively, take the longer route (7 hours) via A77/N7 with foodie stops in Aubigny-sur-Nère (Scottish-French alliance town) plus Chavignol and Sancerre for wine and goat's cheese.