A deliciously zingy, creamy topping for crepes or pancakes this February.
This week the Autumnal chill has hit abruptly, just as much as returning to school routines after the mid-term holiday. Fumbling for lost gloves, struggling with a new swift boot walk as feet are in straight-jacketed shock with thick chaussettes, plus attempting to look like the chic French women with their scarves nonchalantly thrown over shoulders, I found myself gravitating towards the magical sizzling chicken rôtisseries dotted along the street on the way to the market.
That was it; roast chicken for a perfectly quick, comforting dinner. Mention chicken in St Germain-en-Laye and there’s only one place to make for at the market: in the central aisle, you’ll find Monsieur Dee. He’s not difficult to find since he pulls the crowds not just for his graceful service but his produce is in another league – such as the enormous duck filets, paupiettes parcels and saucisses de volaille (poultry sausages.)
By the time I arrive, most of the roasted chickens have disappeared. Before I know it, in pops a few extra chicken filets and a customary ‘bouquet du jardin’ of parsley on the house, as he tells me persil is for les dames, pas les hommes. Adoraaable Monsieur Dee!
Jack Be Little Pumpkins
Just across from Monsieur Dee’s sizzling poulet rôtis is la maison Huet, who always put on such a parade of forgotten vegetables that the conversation in the queue is guaranteed to provide an exchange of interesting recipes. Below left are the round Parisian carrots I talked about in this vegetable soup recipe post, but this time I was determined to do something other than use these mini pumpkins as decoration. They’re called Jack Be Little.
How to cook a Jack Be Little: I was told to simply prick it a few times, stick it in the microwave for 3 minutes on full blast, cut the top off, scoop out the seeds and fill the remaining hole with a mixture of emmental cheese, bacon and crème fraîche. That’s it; ridiculously easy and delicious to boot. Instead I filled each mini pumpkin with a mixture of bacon, cooked chestnuts, parmesan, crème fraîche and parsley.
For each individual pumpkin, briefly fry 4 cooked chestnuts, 1 chopped smoked bacon rasher, 1 tbsp freshly grated parmesan, finely chopped parsley, a tablespoon of crème fraîche and season to taste. Fill the cavity with it, then place under a hot grill for a couple of minutes. Then serve with a spoon and mix the whole thing up with the pumpkin flesh at the table.
And the kids’ favourite part to go with the roasted chicken? A creamy, tart lemon sauce. I’m surprised that my girls would like such a simple sauce so much. What I love about it, is that it’s another way to use up yolks so it’s now added to the growing egg yolk recipe collection. It’s also a lovely sauce to accompany any leftover turkey!
Lemon Sauce Recipe for Roasted Chicken or Turkey
Preparation: 10 minutes
Cooking Time: 15 minutes
200ml chicken stock
3 egg yolks
juice and zest of 1 lemon (untreated)
1. Bring the chicken stock to the boil.
2. Meanwhile, whisk the yolks with the lemon juice, zest and cream in a bowl and gradually whisk the mixture into the hot stock.
3. Keep whisking until the sauce thickens slightly and bubbles.
Monsieur Dee thought we’d be celebrating Thanksgiving since we speak English. As our American friends are gearing up for next week, we’re instead celebrating la fête du Beaujolais Nouveau tonight in France. Apparently this year it’s another fruity success, with a hint of peaches.
Ah, it reminds us of our student days; 21 years ago, I met my Frenchie over a glass of particularly banana-flavoured Beaujolais Nouveau. Although, if you want my opinion, this lemon roast chicken and the pumpkin would partner well with a Gaillac or a Côte du Rhône white. I mean, look what happens after a glass or two of Beaujolais! I ended up haveeeeing to speak French!
Tintin may still make the odd appearance in French shop windows following Spielberg’s film, but I’m frankly fascinated by Captain Haddock’s nose. It reminds me of a one-liner by Steve Martin in the film, Roxanne (based on the French story of Cyrano de Bergérac by Rostand) referring to ze nose:
“Do you have a license for that?”
My handsome French teacher at school back in the 80s was also embellished with a nose – or nez, or even pif to be familiar – that was so spectacular that a group of us in class wrote a piece entitled, “Why do Frenchmen have big noses?” We could not have been serious. I was eventually punished for that one when I broke my nose 4 years ago, falling with my complete weight on the hooter. Now I’m constantly reminded of my lesson in this freezing weather when my nose lights up à la Rudolf with its license to glow in the cold.
Do you remember Gérard Depardieu’s legendary nose in Cyrano de Bergerac? As Depardieu’s name suggests, he is a dieu on stage. I saw him larger than life in person recently at the première in Paris of his new Telefilm, Rasputin (in French and Russian). Hang on to your seats, folks. This film is spine-tingling. I can’t think of anyone who could play the part of Rasputin as well as Gérard. You can smell it will be a hit.
I wonder if Captain Archibald Haddock could sniff out these Scottish fishcakes from The Black Island? Although it’s more of a weekday family supper, serving mini portions as a Scottish starter has been a surprising hit with French friends at weekends. I love the smokiness of the fish but what really makes it? The simple, homemade tartare sauce. You know what’s coming, don’t you? It’s another handy recipe to use up your egg yolks for making macarons!
You can use any smoked fish or a combination of smoked and plain fish but I personally love making it all with smoked haddock. It took me a while to get the tongue around the French word for haddock: églefin; but did you know that églefin fumé can result in funny looks at the poissonerie? I stand corrected as they say that smoked haddock is just known as…
‘Haddock’ (with a French accent, please.)
Recipe: Smoked Haddock Fishcakes and Tartare Sauce
Preparation Time: 15 minutes
Chilling Time: 30 minutes
Cooking Time: 30 minutes
300g smoked haddock
2 bay leaves
500g potatoes, cooked
zest of an untreated lemon
1 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 tbsp chopped chives
2 tsp horseradish sauce
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tbsp capers, chopped
oat flour (to shape) or plain flour
100g breadcrumbs or panko
2 egg yolks
1/2 tsp sea salt
1 tsp Dijon mustard
200ml olive oil
1 tbsp white wine vinegar
1 tbsp gherkins, finely chopped
1 tbsp capers, chopped
1 tbsp dill, chopped
1 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, chopped
juice of 1/2 lemon
1. Poach the fish in milk (just enough to cover up to 1/3 of the fish) with the bay leaves for 10 minutes. Set aside to cool, then strain, skin and flake the fish to ensure there are no bones.
2. Mash the potatoes, mixing in the mustard, horseradish, lemon zest, capers and herbs. Season well then add the flaked fish.
3. Divide the fish mixture into small patty cakes (about 2.5 cm thick for starter/hors d’oeuvres size). Form into a shape then roll into the flour. Beat the egg in a separate bowl, dip the patties into it, then cover in the breadcrumbs or panko.
4. Chill for at least 30 minutes in the fridge until needed – this is when I make the tartare sauce. You could freeze the fishcakes at this point, placing them openly on a baking sheet. When frozen, transfer to containers and freeze for up to 3 months.
5. Fry in batches in hot olive oil for 5 minutes on each side until golden and crispy. Keep them warm until serving with the tartare sauce.
Make the tartare sauce. Ensure your ingredients are at room temperature to make the perfect sauce. This sauce can keep for 3 days in an airtight jar in the fridge, so it’s handy to make this in advance.
- Whisk the egg yolks, salt and mustard with a metallic whisk in a glass bowl. Gradually add the olive oil, dribbling it finely and regularly, whisking all the time. Once the mixture starts to thicken, add the white wine vinegar (use a good quality one.)
- Add all the remaining ingredients and mix well.
I wonder how on earth the Tartare sauce formed the map of Corsica? It wasn’t the Black Island but the ‘Island of Beauty’, as my Corsican husband calls it.
This has to be one of my favourite pronto pasta dishes after home-made pesto. It’s “fast food”, easy, scrumptious and what’s more – it uses up egg yolks! I mentioned this recipe briefly in the egg yolk pages in the book’s annex, but here it is in more detail.
I played about with a fish recipe for John Dory with Sorrel in my tattered and splattered Crème Fraîche Cookbook (Boutron/Ager) one night, since the photo had fresh noodles and called for egg yolks and lemon. And since I only had prawns to hand and some fresh asparagus, this just evolved.
Vegetarians can omit the prawns and have a lovely lemony cream sauce with the asparagus. I’m using asparagus, as it’s the end of its season here, but you can omit this and toss in fresh or frozen peas instead. It’s as simple as that.
My sincere excuses to my Italian friends for this photo. As you can see, I do love pasta with my parmesan. Parmesan isn’t normally served with seafood pasta dishes, but I personally adore it. Each time I sprinkle it on, my Corsican Mother-in-Law reminds me. Constantly; with that disapproving half-eye cringe. But I still love it, even if my feet shuffle under the table.
Preparation Time: 10 minutes
Cooking Time: 12 minutes
12 giant prawns
3 egg yolks
2 lemons, untreated
20 cl tub crème fraîche
50g freshly grated parmesan
1 tbsp fresh lemon thyme
bunch of green asparagus (optional)
1. Firstly, get some freshly cooked prawns and shell them.
2. Cook dried spaghetti in boiling salted water for about 10 minutes or until al dente.
3. Meanwhile, in a separate bowl, mix the yolks, the juice and zest from the lemons, crème fraîche (or cream if you’re feeling decadently creamy), the parmesan and herbs, then season.
4. If using, break the stems off the asparagus (where they break naturally, about quarter up from the bottom) and cook them for about 5 minutes until al dente in boiling salted water.
5. Drain the pasta and in the same pasta pan, add in the sauce and toss the pasta in it. Add the prawns, asparagus and decorate with extra fresh herbs such as lemon thyme or chives.
Serve pronto with a chilled glass of Chenin Blanc or Chardonnay.
Here I omitted the prawns and tossed in some roasted chicken leftovers…
Et voilà. Keep the egg whites for a batch of macarons!
A huge thank you to my friend, Manu, from Manu’s Menu: she has been very generous in passing on a Versatile Blogger Award, plus others. It means so much coming from Manu, as I’m always in awe of her fabulous Italian recipes: her detailed step-by-step guides make it possible for us all to recreate her perfect dishes in our own kitchens. Merci, Manu! Congratulations to you, on winning the May Recipe Challenge at Food Frenzy with your Macarons with White Chocolate and Mint Ganache! They are amazing. 🙂
Fancy a change of scene? Well, this week we’re heading into the country. We’re dropping in on my friend, Brandie, in Southwest Virginia, for a recipe to help us use up our egg yolks. Imagine the scene near the Appalachian mountains: it’s like a setting for a movie!
When I first discovered Brandie’s blog a few weeks’ ago, The Country Cook, I was instantly made welcome with her down-to-earth style of recipes and wonderful sense of humour. Since then, her warmth and charm continue to ooze out of her blog; you get the feeling you live just next door and are dropping in to say hello, exchanging recipes, tips and discussing kids and life in general.
If you don’t know Brandie already, you soon will. Don’t you just feel from her dazzling smile that you know her already? Voici la belle Brandie – here she is, my friends!
First, let me say thank you to Jill for inviting me here today. Getting invited to do a guest recipe post on Jill’s “Le Blog” is kinda like getting invited to an elegant dinner party. You immediately start thinking,
“What should I wear?”
“What sort of hostess gift should I bring?”
“I’m definitely going to have to shave my legs.”
“Please, please, please do not let me drop anything down the front of my dress.”
You get the point.
It was such an honor for me to be asked by Jill to showcase a recipe on her blog and I certainly did not want to disappoint her or her lovely readers.
Jill tasked me with coming up with a recipe that uses egg yolks (since so many are leftover from making her lovely macarons).
I mulled it over for a bit and decided to share a recipe that is one of my favorites – Ceasar Salad Dressing.
I just adore Caesar Salad with homemade croutons and sometimes with grilled chicken. Jill tells me this goes best with a glass of California Chardonnay – and I would have to agree.
If you’ve never attempted to make your own salad dressing, I implore you to try it now. The depth of flavor just cannot be captured in a bottle. Now don’t get me wrong, I’m not above using the bottled stuff but sometimes I want to bring something special to the table and this really does the trick. Especially if the salad is going to be the main star of your meal.
This is a two-for-one special today. I’m also going to share a homemade crouton recipe. They are so easy to make and the great thing about homemade croutons is you won’t break a tooth on them like you do the prepackaged ones.
Caesar Salad Dressing
2 garlic cloves (if your cloves are on the small side, use 3)
1 cup mayonnaise
1 egg yolk
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
2 tbsp. water
2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
1 tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tsp. granulated white sugar
½ tsp. Worcestershire sauce
½ tsp. Dijon Mustard
salt & pepper to taste (about ¼ to ½ tsp each)
In a food processor, finely process the garlic until minced. Add the rest of the ingredients and blend until smooth.
How easy is this recipe?
Put dressing into a lidded container and pop it in the fridge for a few hours or overnight to give the flavors time to blend together (trust me –this makes a big difference in taste).
Cook’s Notes: If you are squeamish about using a raw egg yolk in your dressing, I would suggest purchasing pasteurized eggs. However, if you are using very fresh eggs, you should have no problems with your egg yolks. Just crack it into a separate bowl first, to ensure the color and texture look normal for an egg.
½ loaf of stale French bread, cubed
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Salt and Pepper
Garlic Powder (optional)
Preheat oven to 400 degrees (F). In a medium bowl, add cubed bread. Drizzle olive oil all over the cubes until lightly coated. Sprinkle on salt, pepper and a little garlic powder.
Place cubes on baking sheet and bake for about 10-14 minutes until lightly browned.
Thank you again to Jill for letting me share this recipe with y’all today. I really hope you enjoy it and I hope you’ll come by and see me sometime over at The Country Cook.
Thanks so much, Brandie, for sharing such a tasty recipe. Shave your legs for doing the post….see what I mean, folks? She has you in stitches! I don’t know about you, but I’m making double portions since it’s one of my favourite salads.
Now that we’ve tasted that delicious dressing and crispy crrrroutons, I’ll continue sipping that glass of chilled Chardonnay and head on over to Brandie’s blog. She’s continuing to cook up a storm in her kitchen, so check out more of her mouth-watering recipes at The Country Cook. Don’t forget to say cheers from me!
Blueberries are guarded like the crown jewels by my daughter. When Julie was a toddler she called them black balls. Not very poetic, I know, but since they are packed with anti-oxidants and many more healthy benefits eating plenty blueberries is to be encouraged, whatever you call them.
When Erin from BigFatBaker.com came up with a blueberry curd, it was time to rejoice. She was just in time to add a touch of blue to my first batch of Royal Wedding inspired macarons in honour of Prince William and Kate Middleton’s Big Day. Stay tuned for Monday’s post with a Royal Macaron procession.
I am delighted that Erin said yes and has returned to share her fruit curd recipes with us. They use up your egg yolks, are gluten free and can be used to fill your fruity macarons – that’s if there’s much left after relishing it by the spoonful! Let me hand you over to Erin now while I find my hat for a Royal Wedding Party.
Having a second opportunity to write a guest post for Jill is truly an honor. I am in love with her egg yolk section, and I can only imagine what recipes we will see in the future.
Speaking of recipes, have you checked out my pineapple curd recipe? And what about Manu’s recipe for Genovesi? Doesn’t that sound fabulous? I can’t wait until I have a chance to make that one for myself!
To continue on the egg yolk journey I made a delicious and thick organic blueberry curd. It is sweet, but balanced and I can only imagine how amazing it would taste sandwiched between some of Jill’s vanilla macarons.
Making this blueberry curd recipe is just as simple as any other curd recipe out there.
6 tbsp unsalted organic butter at room temperature
10-12 oz. organic blueberries
3 large egg yolks
¾ cup white sugar
pinch of salt
¼ cup water
First, defrost the frozen berries, or rinse fresh ones (if you are lucky enough to find them). In a small saucepan combine the water with the berries and cook down until the berries have burst, and there is a slightly syrupy liquid forming in the pan.
Go ahead and remove the pan from the heat, and smash the berries with a spoon. Strain the contents of your pan through a fine mesh strainer. Be sure to press on all the solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Dispose of the remains in the strainer.
In the same saucepan whisk together the sugar and butter. Slowly add in the egg yolks and mix until fully combined. Mix in the blueberry juice and salt.
Set the pan over low heat, and gradually increase the temperature of the mixture while stirring frequently. Gradually, over the next 5-7 minutes, increase the heat to medium while constantly stirring. At this point the mixture should be starting to thicken up.
Cook without boiling for 5-7 more minutes, or until the mixture has reached 170ºF. Do not forget to stir constantly!
Remove the pan from the heat and stir for 5 more minutes, and allow the mixture to cool slightly (about 5-10 minutes). Once it has cooled, pour into a pint sized jar for storage.
This curd turns out to be fairly thick compared to a traditional lemon or lime curd. I recommend allowing the curd to sit out at room temperature for about 10 minutes before trying to spread on something soft like bread or macarons.
But, there are many ways to enjoy this delicious curd. One of my new favorites is a peanut butter and blueberry curd sandwich, yum!
The curd will keep in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.
A huge thanks to Erin for sharing this with us to further our repertoire of egg yolk recipes. Don’t forget to pop by BigFatBaker.com and say hello to Erin from me and check out many more wonderful organic recipes.