French Monkfish Stew (Lotte à L'Américaine)

A Popular French Fish Stew For Special Occasions

When first starting out in Paris in 1992, I remember being bowled over by this dish cooked by Antoine's friends. It's a regional speciality of Brittany: a chic yet simple French Monkfish stew. Known as Lotte à l'Armoricaine, it's cooked in white wine, garlic, onions and tomatoes with that extra French touch of being flambéed with Cognac.

It was the first time we were served fish for the main course at a French dinner and boy, did it leave a delicious mark on me. The fish was firm with a slightly sweet flavor - and somehow the fish hadn't disintegrated into the sauce. It was so good, that I eventually managed to persuade them to tell me the recipe and, over the years, I've made it in this way. I add more garlic and a hint of Cayenne pepper to give it that intriguing and subtle kick.

I often read in French cookbooks that the best way to serve monkfish fillets is either roasted or grilled. However, serve this popular classic French monkfish stew, and you'll discover how a simple fish dish can be taken to another level.

Lotte à L'Américaine or Lotte à L'Armoricaine?

You'll often spot this monkfish recipe on Paris restaurant menus as Lotte à l'Américaine - and it's no mistake. Both Larousse Gastronomique and Alexandre Dumas' Dictionary of Cuisine list the same dish under that name. The Breton version, Lotte à l'Armoricaine, simply finishes with a spoonful of crème fraîche.

This traditional French monkfish stew comes from coastal Brittany, where the sauce Armoricaine is used for shellfish or firm white fish like monkfish - often nicknamed "poor man's lobster."

Legend has it that chef Pierre Fraisse, originally from Sète, created the first fish stew in Paris at the end of the 19th century. With only the next day's lobster on hand, he improvised a tomato-based sauce inspired by his southern roots and Breton flair. When asked its name, he called it "Lobster with an American Sauce."

Monkfish Stew: No Small Bones

No bones about it. Monkfish, or la lotte in French, is one of the most popular fish in France. It's normally presented on our fish stalls without its ugly head. I've rarely seen it here hence I have no photos but if you look it up, you'll see it's a specimen that would be the bad guy in a film like Nemo! Hence why it's also known as "sea-devil" (diable de mer) or "frog-fish" (crapaud).

How often have you tried to eat fish at dinner while politely dodging bones mid-conversation? With monkfish, once the single central bone's gone, that's it - no fiddly bits left. It's ideal for special occasions.

Does Monkfish Taste Like Lobster?

The monkfish taste is also around its meaty texture. All the monkfish meat is in the tail (queue de lotte) and I say 'meat' as it's a firm, 'meaty' fish.
Also known as "Poor Man's Lobster", monkfish even tastes like lobster with its sweet taste.

Moreover, monkfish is cheaper than lobster - plus there's no need to crush claws or wear bibs at the table!

Monkfish - Perfect for Cooking in a Stew

My daughter, Julie, says it outright. She doesn't like white fish and yet will eat this healthy monkfish dish. Perhaps because it's in a deliciously thick tomato sauce.

Cooking monkfish in a stew is perfect as it doesn't break up during cooking - but follow the instructions below. The secret is to remove the fish after initially browning it on all sides. Take it off the heat and keep aside while making the sauce.

Add the fish back in to the pot 10 minutes before the end of cooking. That way the fish is perfectly cooked. As fish is quite expensive, it needs respect. Overcooking will turn the fish medallions into bullets, so please don't leave the fish to cook too long.

Do I Need to Make Fish Stock for This Recipe?

I used to make a fish stock for this recipe. Over time, I've become a lazy gourmet and don't see a huge difference in flavour with this version.

If you really want to make your own fish stock, ask your fishmonger for the skin and bone to be packaged separately (see note below). Add with the wine and leave the sauce to reduce further.

Fish Stock Tip: as you're leaving the fish stock to cool, tell anyone lurking around the kitchen what it is. The first time I made this as a student, my Dad poured my precious hard-worked fish stock down the sink thinking it was dirty water! Another reason why I don't bother today! - Jill

How To Serve French Monkfish Stew

Whether dishing this up for family or for a dinner party, serve directly from the cooking pot at the table. Serve with fluffy Basmati rice (or other long-grain rice) and sautéed green beans with garlic.

For stress-free entertaining, prepare the green beans (haricots vert) in advance until just cooked, then set aside until ready to serve. At the last minute, sauté them in olive oil with finely chopped garlic and fresh parsley - also great with chorizo chips.

This dish is also perfect for serving outdoors. Serve with a chilled rosé and plenty of laughter with lively conversation.

More Fish Recipes with Tomato

Looking for another stew with seafood or just fish dishes, Mediterranean style?

• Whole Baked Sea Bass
• Californian Cioppino Italian-American Seafood Stew.
• Sea Bream, Provençal style